Questions

It's so exciting to have your Panther Chameleon egg! To give it the best chance of hatching, you should place the incubator in a permanent spot that meets these criteria:

• No Direct Sunlight: Keep it away from windows or bright lights that could cause the temperature to fluctuate.
• Stable Temperature: The Incubator needs to have a day and night drop in temp that fluctuates.
• Easy to View: Place it somewhere you can easily see it without having to move or pick up the container. It's important not to disturb the egg while it's incubating.
• Water Check: Make sure the colored sponges in the outer cup are always at least a minimum of 3/4 full with bottled water.

If you just received your egg, remember to remove the yellow round positioning sponge (that's just for shipping!) and add your hatching solution to the colored sponges to "wake up" the egg.

Included in the box is a “Top-Off” bottle incase your hatching solution levels drop in the sponges area.

Do you have any other questions about your setup? I'm here to help!

I understand it can be worrying when your egg hasn't hatched by the expected date, but please don't worry! It is very common for Panther Chameleon eggs to take a bit longer than anticipated, and they often look inactive while they are still perfectly healthy.

In the meantime, here is the best way to check on your egg:

1. Check the Sponges: Look at the outer container and ensure the colored sponges are full to the top of the sponges with bottled water. If they have dried out even a little, it can slow the process down. Check the water line height once a week.

2. If Your Egg is White and Roundish and your rocks are glossy (not flooded or standing water) there is likely no reason to follow steps 3-6. Your Egg Will Hatch Trust the Process.

3. Photo Verification: VERY GENTLY remove both lids of the incubator without disturbing the egg itself.

4. Take a Photo: Take a high-resolution, clear photo of the egg.

5. Email Us: Send that photo along with a description of your setup to help@chameleons101.com.

Eric Thompson, our lead breeder, reviews these emails personally. He will look at the photo and get back to you as soon as possible to let you know exactly how the egg is doing and what the next steps should be.

If you would prefer to speak with Eric directly, he is available Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM PST via email at help@chameleons101.com.

"When in doubt, don't throw it out!" These eggs can often surprise us. Please send that photo over so Eric can take a look!

That is a great question! Feeding your baby Panther Chameleon the right size and type of food is very important for their growth.

Since baby chameleons are quite small, their food needs to be small too. A good rule of thumb is that the insect should be no wider than the space between the chameleon's eyes on top of the head.

Recommended Foods for Babies:

• 2 week old Crickets: Very small crickets (about 1/8 inch) are excellent.
• Bean Beetles: These are small, easy to hunt, and very nutritious.
• Small Silkworms: These are soft and packed with calcium.
• Flightless Fruit Flies (Drosophila hydei): These are the last resort starter food for brand-new hatchlings if you can't get other things.

Pro-Tips for Feeding:

1. Frequency: Babies have high metabolisms and should be fed every day. Offer as many insects as they will eat in about 10-15 minutes.

2. Gut Loading: Always feed your insects nutritious greens (like collard greens or carrots) 24 hours before feeding them to your chameleon. This ensures the "bugs" are full of vitamins!

3. Supplements: You will need to "dust" your insects with Calcium (without D3) at almost every feeding. Twice a month, use a Calcium with D3 and a Multivitamin supplement.

If you'd like to see what we recommend or if you're looking to order supplies, you can check out our website or I can look up your order if you provide your Order Number!

Do you have your cage setup ready for when they hatch? If you need help with that, just let me know if you're setting up for a Baby/Juvenile or an Adult!

That's a great question about bulb maintenance! To keep your Panther Chameleon healthy and ensure they get the proper UVB for calcium absorption, you should replace your T5 HO linear UVB tubes every 6 months, even if they are still producing visible light (manufacturers often rate them for 12 months, but replacing at 6 months is the safest practice to ensure peak UVB output). Basking (heat) bulbs can simply be replaced when they burn out. If you need replacement bulbs, we carry them on our website!

Setting up a proper habitat is crucial for a healthy Panther Chameleon. Here are the core requirements:

Adult Setup

1. Cage Type: Use a screen enclosure ((at least 2'x2'x4' for adults) to ensure proper ventilation.

2. Lighting: You need two types of lights:

• UVB: A T5 HO linear tube (5.0 or 6% UVB) is essential for calcium absorption.
• Heat: A basking bulb 25-40Watt Bulbs to create an 85° basking spot. Add a main basking branch about 3-4 inches from the top of the cage.

3. Hydration: Use an automatic misting system or a dripper. Humidity is easy to achieve by freezing bottled water in an ice cube tray, Place a couple of cubes on top the cage in the morning and a couple in the evening. These will also water your plants if you align the cubes over the pot.

4. Environment: Fill the cage with natural manzanita pencil thick branches (available on our website here: https://chameleons101.com/product-category/manzanita/) a live small Pothos or Ficus plant provides wonderful opportunity for moisture to gather for them to drink.

5. Link to cage set up video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0RLrV61ndI

Baby & Juvenile Setup

1. Cage Type: Use a screen enclosure (maximum of 16”x16”x30” size cage) to ensure proper ventilation.

2. Lighting: You need two types of lights:

• UVB: A T5 HO linear tube (5.0 or 6% UVB) is essential for calcium absorption.
• Heat: A basking bulb 25Watt to create an 85° basking spot. Add a main basking branch about 3-4 inches from the top of the cage.

3. Hydration: Use an automatic misting system or a dripper. Humidity is easy to achieve by freezing bottled water in an ice cube tray, Place a couple of cubes on top the cage in the morning and a couple in the evening. These will also water your plants if you align the cubes over the pot.

4. Environment: Fill the cage with natural manzanita pencil thick branches (available on our website here: https://chameleons101.com/product-category/manzanita/) a live small Pothos or Ficus plant provides wonderful opportunity for moisture to gather for them to drink.

5. Link to cage set up video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L0RLrV61ndI

Panther Chameleon eggs require an incubation temperature between 65°F and 78°F (22°C-26.6°C) to promote healthy development.

It's so exciting to have your Panther Chameleon egg! To give it the best chance of hatching, you should place the incubator in a permanent spot that meets these criteria:

• No Direct Sunlight: Keep it away from windows or bright lights that could cause the temperature to fluctuate.
• Stable Temperature: The Incubator needs to have a day and night drop in temp that fluctuates.
• Easy to View: Place it somewhere you can easily see it without having to move or pick up the container. It's important not to disturb the egg while it's incubating.
• Water Check: Make sure the colored sponges in the outer cup are always at least a minimum of 3/4 full with bottled water.

If you just received your egg, remember to remove the yellow round positioning sponge (that's just for shipping!) and add your hatching solution to the colored sponges to "wake up" the egg.

Included in the box is a “Top-Off” bottle incase your hatching solution levels drop in the sponges area.

Do you have any other questions about your setup? I'm here to help!

The incubation period typically lasts 6 to 12 months ,though some eggs can take over a year to hatch.

I understand it can be worrying when your egg hasn't hatched by the expected date, but please don't worry! It is very common for Panther Chameleon eggs to take a bit longer than anticipated, and they often look inactive while they are still perfectly healthy.

In the meantime, here is the best way to check on your egg:

1. Check the Sponges: Look at the outer container and ensure the colored sponges are full to the top of the sponges with bottled water. If they have dried out even a little, it can slow the process down. Check the water line height once a week.

2. If Your Egg is White and Roundish and your rocks are glossy (not flooded or standing water) there is likely no reason to follow steps 3-6. Your Egg Will Hatch Trust the Process.

3. Photo Verification: VERY GENTLY remove both lids of the incubator without disturbing the egg itself.

4. Take a Photo: Take a high-resolution, clear photo of the egg.

5. Email Us: Send that photo along with a description of your setup to help@chameleons101.com.

Eric Thompson, our lead breeder, reviews these emails personally. He will look at the photo and get back to you as soon as possible to let you know exactly how the egg is doing and what the next steps should be.

If you would prefer to speak with Eric directly, he is available Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM PST via email at help@chameleons101.com.

"When in doubt, don't throw it out!" These eggs can often surprise us. Please send that photo over so Eric can take a look!

If the egg is white and round and free of mold its healthy and will hatch. Please be patient.

I understand it can be worrying when your egg hasn't hatched by the expected date, but please don't worry! It is very common for Panther Chameleon eggs to take a bit longer than anticipated, and they often look inactive while they are still perfectly healthy.

In the meantime, here is the best way to check on your egg:

1. Check the Sponges: Look at the outer container and ensure the colored sponges are full to the top of the sponges with bottled water. If they have dried out even a little, it can slow the process down. Check the water line height once a week.

2. If Your Egg is White and Roundish and your rocks are glossy (not flooded or standing water) there is likely no reason to follow steps 3-6. Your Egg Will Hatch Trust the Process.

3. Photo Verification: VERY GENTLY remove both lids of the incubator without disturbing the egg itself.

4. Take a Photo: Take a high-resolution, clear photo of the egg.

5. Email Us: Send that photo along with a description of your setup to help@chameleons101.com.

Eric Thompson, our lead breeder, reviews these emails personally. He will look at the photo and get back to you as soon as possible to let you know exactly how the egg is doing and what the next steps should be.

If you would prefer to speak with Eric directly, he is available Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM PST via email at help@chameleons101.com.

"When in doubt, don't throw it out!" These eggs can often surprise us. Please send that photo over so Eric can take a look!

Candling is harmful and voids warranties as the egg shell is too thick to see veins and movement can also damage the embryo especially near hatching.

Eggs may show water drops and shrink dramatically 24-48 hours before hatching.

Contact Chameleons101 staff if the hatchling remains asleep for over 24 hours after hatching. Take both Lids off and take a photo without disturbing the baby and email the image to help@chameleons101.com. Then replace the lids as the babies can sleep for a very long time after hatching.

Hatchlings typically begin eating 24-48 hours after emerging from the egg.

That is a great question! Feeding your baby Panther Chameleon the right size and type of food is very important for their growth.

Since baby chameleons are quite small, their food needs to be small too. A good rule of thumb is that the insect should be no wider than the space between the chameleon's eyes on top of the head.

Recommended Foods for Babies:

• 2 week old Crickets: Very small crickets (about 1/8 inch) are excellent.
• Bean Beetles: These are small, easy to hunt, and very nutritious.
• Small Silkworms: These are soft and packed with calcium.
• Flightless Fruit Flies (Drosophila hydei): These are the last resort starter food for brand-new hatchlings if you can't get other things.

Pro-Tips for Feeding:

1. Frequency: Babies have high metabolisms and should be fed every day. Offer as many insects as they will eat in about 10-15 minutes.

2. Gut Loading: Always feed your insects nutritious greens (like collard greens or carrots) 24 hours before feeding them to your chameleon. This ensures the "bugs" are full of vitamins!

3. Supplements: You will need to "dust" your insects with Calcium (without D3) at almost every feeding. Twice a month, use a Calcium with D3 and a Multivitamin supplement.

If you'd like to see what we recommend or if you're looking to order supplies, you can check out our website or I can look up your order if you provide your Order Number!

Do you have your cage setup ready for when they hatch? If you need help with that, just let me know if you're setting up for a Baby/Juvenile or an Adult!

That is a great question! Feeding your baby Panther Chameleon the right size and type of food is very important for their growth.

Since baby chameleons are quite small, their food needs to be small too. A good rule of thumb is that the insect should be no wider than the space between the chameleon's eyes on top of the head.

Recommended Foods for Babies:

• 2 week old Crickets: Very small crickets (about 1/8 inch) are excellent.
• Bean Beetles: These are small, easy to hunt, and very nutritious.
• Small Silkworms: These are soft and packed with calcium.
• Flightless Fruit Flies (Drosophila hydei): These are the last resort starter food for brand-new hatchlings if you can't get other things.

Pro-Tips for Feeding:

1. Frequency: Babies have high metabolisms and should be fed every day. Offer as many insects as they will eat in about 10-15 minutes.

2. Gut Loading: Always feed your insects nutritious greens (like collard greens or carrots) 24 hours before feeding them to your chameleon. This ensures the "bugs" are full of vitamins!

3. Supplements: You will need to "dust" your insects with Calcium (without D3) at almost every feeding. Twice a month, use a Calcium with D3 and a Multivitamin supplement.

If you'd like to see what we recommend or if you're looking to order supplies, you can check out our website or I can look up your order if you provide your Order Number!

Do you have your cage setup ready for when they hatch? If you need help with that, just let me know if you're setting up for a Baby/Juvenile or an Adult!

Provide an abundant supply of small insects to support rapid growth as hatchlings can grow 10-30 times their birth size in a year.

No supplements should be used in the first two weeks of a chameleon's life.

Use a well-ventilated screened enclosure. 16"x16"x20" or 16"x16"x30") to make hunting easier for hatchlings and adults require a minimum 2'x2'x4'.

Provide pencil-sized branches or purchase our #1 recommended Manzanita product on out website https://chameleons101.com/product-category/manzanita/ and watch out cage setup video here: https://youtu.be/L0RLrV61ndI?si=Va4GW6RbGaEJIP7p

Provide pencil-sized branches or purchase our #1 recommended Manzanita product on out website https://chameleons101.com/product-category/manzanita/ and watch out cage setup video here: https://youtu.be/L0RLrV61ndI?si=Va4GW6RbGaEJIP7p

Panther Chameleon will only do this behavior when your branch size in the enclosure is to large or not high enough in the cage. Branch diameter should never be larger than the diameter of a pencil.

Mist the enclosure 3-4 times daily for 15-30 seconds to maintain high humidity, you can also freeze bottled drinking water into ice cubes and place them on top of your cage above your live plant if you have one, this will water the plant and the chameleon plus create humidity

Place 1-2 ice cubes on top of the hatchling's cage to maintain humidity if you're unable to mist.

Adult males need a minimum 2'x2'x4' all-screen enclosure for proper ventilation.

Females and juveniles can be housed in 18"x18"x36" all-screen enclosures.

Manzanita branches are best for climbing and are available for purchase on the Chameleons101 website. https://chameleons101.com/product-category/manzanita/

Avoid substrates to simplify cleaning and prevent feeder insects from hiding. We recumbent using just the tray the cages come with and no substrate needed. HOT TIP if you see poop clean up immediately with a paper towel.

Clean up chameleon poop twice daily to prevent sickness.

Use a T5 5.0 UVB Linear ZooMed Reptisun fluorescent bulb (minimum 24 inches) for essential UVB exposure.

Coil-type UVB bulbs are ineffective and do not provide adequate UVB exposure.

Use a 25-40 watt incandescent bulb for basking

That's a great question about bulb maintenance! To keep your Panther Chameleon healthy and ensure they get the proper UVB for calcium absorption, you should replace your T5 HO linear UVB tubes every 6 months, even if they are still producing visible light (manufacturers often rate them for 12 months, but replacing at 6 months is the safest practice to ensure peak UVB output). Basking (heat) bulbs can simply be replaced when they burn out. If you need replacement bulbs, we carry them on our website!

No

Feed a stable diet of adult crickets, horned worms, soldier flys, and Dubia Roaches, super worms only as a treat once in a while,

Feed once or twice daily

Dust all insects with Sticky Tongue Farms' Mineral indoor formula if your animal is indoor. Follow instructions on package.

Eggs typically hatch in 6-12 months

I understand it can be worrying when your egg hasn't hatched by the expected date, but please don't worry! It is very common for Panther Chameleon eggs to take a bit longer than anticipated, and they often look inactive while they are still perfectly healthy.

In the meantime, here is the best way to check on your egg:

1. Check the Sponges: Look at the outer container and ensure the colored sponges are full to the top of the sponges with bottled water. If they have dried out even a little, it can slow the process down. Check the water line height once a week.

2. If Your Egg is White and Roundish and your rocks are glossy (not flooded or standing water) there is likely no reason to follow steps 3-6. Your Egg Will Hatch Trust the Process.

3. Photo Verification: VERY GENTLY remove both lids of the incubator without disturbing the egg itself.

4. Take a Photo: Take a high-resolution, clear photo of the egg.

5. Email Us: Send that photo along with a description of your setup to help@chameleons101.com.

Eric Thompson, our lead breeder, reviews these emails personally. He will look at the photo and get back to you as soon as possible to let you know exactly how the egg is doing and what the next steps should be.

If you would prefer to speak with Eric directly, he is available Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM PST via email at help@chameleons101.com.

"When in doubt, don't throw it out!" These eggs can often surprise us. Please send that photo over so Eric can take a look!

Install above the enclosure with no glass or plastic blocking UVB rays and set on a 12-hour timer (7 AM-7 PM).

It provides a basking spot at 85°F as long as your branches are positioned properly new the top of the cage, please see cage set up video: https://youtu.be/L0RLrV61ndI?si=ozwLUlRR-ngvUGDt

Position to create a basking spot and synchronize with the UVB bulb on a 12-hour timer.

Dust feeder insects daily or follow package guidelines and use monthly for additional trace minerals.

Set to mist 3-4 times daily, with two morning mists 15 minutes apart to create dew on leaves, mimicking natural conditions.

After shipping the egg finishes a state called diapause where the embryo attaches itself to the top of the egg, marked by the dot or happy face, After this no movement should occur.

UVB output diminishes over time, and chameleons can fall sick quickly without adequate UVB exposure.

Once the hatchling is mobile (6-18 hours after emerging), transfer it to an enclosure using a small branch.

Live plants like Pothos or Schefflera provide climbing surfaces and help maintain humidity.

All cages need to be screen enclosures to ensure proper ventilation (16"x16"x20" or 16"x16"x30" for hatchlings to make hunting easier, and adults require a minimum 2'x2'x4').

Contact Chameleons101 staff to assess the hatchling’s health and ensure proper care. Email a photo of the enclosure clearly showcasing your set up. To help@chameleons101.com and Eric will help you ASAP.

Avoid substrates and clean the enclosure regularly to ensure feeders are accessible to the chameleon.

Only use bottled water to prevents contaminants or minerals from affecting the egg’s development.

I understand it can be worrying when your egg hasn't hatched by the expected date, but please don't worry! It is very common for Panther Chameleon eggs to take a bit longer than anticipated, and they often look inactive while they are still perfectly healthy.

In the meantime, here is the best way to check on your egg:

1. Check the Sponges: Look at the outer container and ensure the colored sponges are full to the top of the sponges with bottled water. If they have dried out even a little, it can slow the process down. Check the water line height once a week.

2. If Your Egg is White and Roundish and your rocks are glossy (not flooded or standing water) there is likely no reason to follow steps 3-6. Your Egg Will Hatch Trust the Process.

3. Photo Verification: VERY GENTLY remove both lids of the incubator without disturbing the egg itself.

4. Take a Photo: Take a high-resolution, clear photo of the egg.

5. Email Us: Send that photo along with a description of your setup to help@chameleons101.com.

Eric Thompson, our lead breeder, reviews these emails personally. He will look at the photo and get back to you as soon as possible to let you know exactly how the egg is doing and what the next steps should be.

If you would prefer to speak with Eric directly, he is available Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM PST via email at help@chameleons101.com.

"When in doubt, don't throw it out!" These eggs can often surprise us. Please send that photo over so Eric can take a look!

The baby is fine, newborns regularly rest for up to 12 hours after expending tons of energy tying to get out of the egg. Please keep the lines on until the baby is walking around in the cup. Once they are up and walking around they are ready to be placed into the new cage. Please refer to our cage set up video here https://youtu.be/L0RLrV61ndI?si=DPpglzJ7T-9-GZi3

I understand it can be worrying when your egg hasn't hatched by the expected date, but please don't worry! It is very common for Panther Chameleon eggs to take a bit longer than anticipated, and they often look inactive while they are still perfectly healthy.

In the meantime, here is the best way to check on your egg:

1. Check the Sponges: Look at the outer container and ensure the colored sponges are full to the top of the sponges with bottled water. If they have dried out even a little, it can slow the process down. Check the water line height once a week.

2. If Your Egg is White and Roundish and your rocks are glossy (not flooded or standing water) there is likely no reason to follow steps 3-6. Your Egg Will Hatch Trust the Process.

3. Photo Verification: VERY GENTLY remove both lids of the incubator without disturbing the egg itself.

4. Take a Photo: Take a high-resolution, clear photo of the egg.

5. Email Us: Send that photo along with a description of your setup to help@chameleons101.com.

Eric Thompson, our lead breeder, reviews these emails personally. He will look at the photo and get back to you as soon as possible to let you know exactly how the egg is doing and what the next steps should be.

If you would prefer to speak with Eric directly, he is available Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM PST via email at help@chameleons101.com.

"When in doubt, don't throw it out!" These eggs can often surprise us. Please send that photo over so Eric can take a look!

The baby is fine. Newborns regularly rest for up to 12 hours after expending tons of energy trying to get out of the egg. Please keep the lids on until the baby is walking around in the cup. Once they are up and walking around, they are ready to be placed into the new cage. Please refer to our cage setup video here https://youtu.be/L0RLrV61ndI?si=DPpglzJ7T-9-GZi3.

65°F–78°F (22°C–26.6°C)

It's so exciting to have your Panther Chameleon egg! To give it the best chance of hatching, you should place the incubator in a permanent spot that meets these criteria:

• No Direct Sunlight: Keep it away from windows or bright lights that could cause the temperature to fluctuate.
• Stable Temperature: The Incubator needs to have a day and night drop in temp that fluctuates.
• Easy to View: Place it somewhere you can easily see it without having to move or pick up the container. It's important not to disturb the egg while it's incubating.
• Water Check: Make sure the colored sponges in the outer cup are always at least a minimum of 3/4 full with bottled water.

If you just received your egg, remember to remove the yellow round positioning sponge (that's just for shipping!) and add your hatching solution to the colored sponges to "wake up" the egg.

Included in the box is a “Top-Off” bottle incase your hatching solution levels drop in the sponges area.

Do you have any other questions about your setup? I'm here to help!

Usually 6–12 months. Some take over a year. Be patient.

White, round, no mold = healthy. It will hatch. Be patient.

Candling is harmful and voids warranties. Shell is too thick to see veins. Moving it can damage the embryo, especially near hatch.

Water drops and a big shrink 24–48 hours before hatching.

After shipping the egg finishes diapause. Embryo attaches to the top, marked by the dot or happy face. No movement after that.

Bottled water only. Minerals/contaminants can affect development.

I understand it can be worrying when your egg hasn't hatched by the expected date, but please don't worry! It is very common for Panther Chameleon eggs to take a bit longer than anticipated, and they often look inactive while they are still perfectly healthy.

In the meantime, here is the best way to check on your egg:

1. Check the Sponges: Look at the outer container and ensure the colored sponges are full to the top of the sponges with bottled water. If they have dried out even a little, it can slow the process down. Check the water line height once a week.

2. If Your Egg is White and Roundish and your rocks are glossy (not flooded or standing water) there is likely no reason to follow steps 3-6. Your Egg Will Hatch Trust the Process.

3. Photo Verification: VERY GENTLY remove both lids of the incubator without disturbing the egg itself.

4. Take a Photo: Take a high-resolution, clear photo of the egg.

5. Email Us: Send that photo along with a description of your setup to help@chameleons101.com.

Eric Thompson, our lead breeder, reviews these emails personally. He will look at the photo and get back to you as soon as possible to let you know exactly how the egg is doing and what the next steps should be.

If you would prefer to speak with Eric directly, he is available Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM PST via email at help@chameleons101.com.

"When in doubt, don't throw it out!" These eggs can often surprise us. Please send that photo over so Eric can take a look!

I understand it can be worrying when your egg hasn't hatched by the expected date, but please don't worry! It is very common for Panther Chameleon eggs to take a bit longer than anticipated, and they often look inactive while they are still perfectly healthy.

In the meantime, here is the best way to check on your egg:

1. Check the Sponges: Look at the outer container and ensure the colored sponges are full to the top of the sponges with bottled water. If they have dried out even a little, it can slow the process down. Check the water line height once a week.

2. If Your Egg is White and Roundish and your rocks are glossy (not flooded or standing water) there is likely no reason to follow steps 3-6. Your Egg Will Hatch Trust the Process.

3. Photo Verification: VERY GENTLY remove both lids of the incubator without disturbing the egg itself.

4. Take a Photo: Take a high-resolution, clear photo of the egg.

5. Email Us: Send that photo along with a description of your setup to help@chameleons101.com.

Eric Thompson, our lead breeder, reviews these emails personally. He will look at the photo and get back to you as soon as possible to let you know exactly how the egg is doing and what the next steps should be.

If you would prefer to speak with Eric directly, he is available Monday through Friday, 9:00 AM to 5:00 PM PST via email at help@chameleons101.com.

"When in doubt, don't throw it out!" These eggs can often surprise us. Please send that photo over so Eric can take a look!

The baby is fine. Newborns rest up to 12 hours after hatching. Keep lids on until it is walking in the cup. Then move to the cage. Video: https://youtu.be/L0RLrV61ndI

Contact staff. Lids off, photo without disturbing the baby, email help@chameleons101.com, lids back on. They can sleep a long time.

Usually 24–48 hours after leaving the egg.

Email a clear photo of the enclosure setup to help@chameleons101.com. Eric will help ASAP.

That is a great question! Feeding your baby Panther Chameleon the right size and type of food is very important for their growth.

Since baby chameleons are quite small, their food needs to be small too. A good rule of thumb is that the insect should be no wider than the space between the chameleon's eyes on top of the head.

Recommended Foods for Babies:

• 2 week old Crickets: Very small crickets (about 1/8 inch) are excellent.
• Bean Beetles: These are small, easy to hunt, and very nutritious.
• Small Silkworms: These are soft and packed with calcium.
• Flightless Fruit Flies (Drosophila hydei): These are the last resort starter food for brand-new hatchlings if you can't get other things.

Pro-Tips for Feeding:

1. Frequency: Babies have high metabolisms and should be fed every day. Offer as many insects as they will eat in about 10-15 minutes.

2. Gut Loading: Always feed your insects nutritious greens (like collard greens or carrots) 24 hours before feeding them to your chameleon. This ensures the "bugs" are full of vitamins!

3. Supplements: You will need to "dust" your insects with Calcium (without D3) at almost every feeding. Twice a month, use a Calcium with D3 and a Multivitamin supplement.

If you'd like to see what we recommend or if you're looking to order supplies, you can check out our website or I can look up your order if you provide your Order Number!

Do you have your cage setup ready for when they hatch? If you need help with that, just let me know if you're setting up for a Baby/Juvenile or an Adult!

Lots of small insects. They can grow 10–30× birth size in a year.

No supplements for the first two weeks of life.

Once mobile, 6–18 hours after emerging, move it with a small branch.

Screen cage 16x16x20 or 16x16x30 so hunting is easier. Adults need at least 2x2x4.

Screen cages only. Same sizes as T19 / adult sizes.

Pencil-sized branches or recommended manzanita: https://chameleons101.com/product-category/manzanita/ Setup video: https://youtu.be/L0RLrV61ndI

Branches too thick or not high enough. Never thicker than a pencil.

Minimum 2x2x4 all-screen.

18x18x36 all-screen.

Manzanita. https://chameleons101.com/product-category/manzanita/

Live pothos or schefflera for climbing and humidity.

No substrate. Use the cage tray. Wipe poop immediately with a paper towel.

Clean poop twice daily.

Mist 3–4 times daily, 15–30 seconds. Optional: ice cubes of bottled drinking water on top of the cage above a live plant.

1–2 ice cubes on top of the hatchling cage.

3–4 times daily. Two morning mists 15 minutes apart so leaves get dew.

T5 5.0 linear ZooMed Reptisun fluorescent, at least 24 inches.

Coils do not give enough UVB.

Above the cage. No glass or plastic in the way. 12-hour timer 7am–7pm.

That's a great question about bulb maintenance! To keep your Panther Chameleon healthy and ensure they get the proper UVB for calcium absorption, you should replace your T5 HO linear UVB tubes every 6 months, even if they are still producing visible light (manufacturers often rate them for 12 months, but replacing at 6 months is the safest practice to ensure peak UVB output). Basking (heat) bulbs can simply be replaced when they burn out. If you need replacement bulbs, we carry them on our website!

25–40W incandescent. About 85°F basking if branches are high enough. Same 12-hour timer. Setup video: https://youtu.be/L0RLrV61ndI

No. They do not drink from a bowl.

Adult crickets, hornworms, soldier flies, Dubia roaches. Superworms only as an occasional treat.

Once or twice daily.

Dust with Sticky Tongue Farms Miner-All Indoor if the animal lives indoors. Follow the package.